Track Day Suspension Settings

Hi,

attached are a few iterations of the final settings I settled upon.

Final Picture - - Final Table1

Like you, my car was for fast road use (windy back roads), and track days. So these settings aren't what I'd recomend for a motorway car, or someone that's too new to track days. I found these to be very "sharp", making the car nimble, and keen to turn-in.

The two pdfs with finals in the name are the main settings. All the others are ways I could change the camber on my top mounts, and also the toe when I got to the circuit. However, I found sticking to the "finals" settings was about right, and I then just added some extra front camber when I got to the track using my Racers Edge camber plates. My method for doing this was to use a spacer of some sort to ensure I put the same amount of camber on both sides (typically I stuck an allen key in there and tightened the top mounts up against that - so it was even each side - if I wanted more camber - use a bigger allen key). This meant at the end of the day I could put it back to exactly where it started from, so I couldn't mess the job up too badly.

You may know this already, but the castor affects the weight of the steering. With the ones attached, it's much lighter than some track setups. When I initially made the change I wasn't sure if I liked it or not - and was concerned that I might have lost some of the feedback and sensitivity from the road, however I quickly concluded this wasn't the case, and whilst it made the steering lighter, none of the feedback was lost, and I felt it was an improvement.

Re the camber, where you end up will really be dictated by your mechanical grip, how well you can use, and how firm your suspension is. As I said above, I used to change the front at the track, however the rear is something you need to have set up and then stick with it. I found the rear camber settings here gave me good even tyre wear, but I'm sure even when on track on full slicks I was still using the inner edges more than the outers, making me think my rear camber was a little too much. I think I'd drop it by 1/4 of a degree if I was doing it again, and would suggest you might want to do the same.

Oh, and one mroe thing - as you now know, the front camber can move on the bottom eccentric adjuster if it's not REALLY tight. Make sure you're man really swings off the thing when doing it up, otherwise you'll be back again sooner than you want.

Cheers,
Will.

Thanks to Will Dew for the time involved and for submitting theses settings for everyone to benefit from.